<p>Willie takes you to his ancestral rock art sites, high in the hills outside Cooktown. Here he shares the stories behind the art, and explains how the paintings speak of the essence of life and the lores of his people. With his great smile and infectious laugh, Willie will give you an amazing insight into Aboriginal society and spirituality, and show you how we all have a connection to the land, wherever we come from.</p>

<p>Listen and learn as your host Gerry introduces you to Nature’s Storehouse. Take a step back in time with your hostess Irene as she relates what it was really like growing up an Aboriginal under missionary rule. Maaramaka Walkabout Tours endeavours to preserve the knowledge of the flora and fauna found within Nature’s Storehouse – the bush and rainforest including the sand dunes. <br /> Gerry has a wealth of knowledge with regards to the many species of plants and trees to be found in our Rainforests and bushland.</p>
<p><b>Ph: (07) 4069 5381 or (07) 4060 9389</p>
<p></b></p>

<h3>Cooktown Discovery Trail Summary</h3>
<p><strong>Day 1. </strong>Cooktown-Laura via Lakefield National Park 136 km, approx 2 hr 30 mins</p>
<p><strong>Day 2.</strong> Laura-Cooktown 143 km, approx 1 hrs, 30 mins</p>
<p> Kalpowar Crossing Camping Lakefield National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<h3>DAY 1. Cooktown-Laura.</h3>
<p>Road conditions unsealed, suitable for 4WD.</p>
<p>A dirt road links Cooktown to Lakefield National Park, past the Endeavour Falls and on through Battle Camp Road. Camping permits and information about the park can be obtained from QPWS rangers at Cooktown, New Laura, Lakefield or Bizant Ranger Stations. Crossing Laura River, you will come upon historic Old Laura Homestead, one of the oldest cattle properties on Cape York. The structure you see today was built in 1892.</p>
<p>You can bush camp in Lakefield National Park (permit required) or continue onto the township of Laura, where hotel and camping facilities are available.</p>
<p>Carry plenty of drinking water and fuel as there are no service stations in the park. </p>
<p> WARNING – CROCODILES. Estuarine crocodiles are present in creeks, rivers and waterholes in this area.</p>
<p> Giant Horse Gallery</p>
<h3>DAY 2. Laura-Cooktown.</h3>
<p>Road conditions sealed suitable for 2WD.</p>
<p>The area surrounding Laura is known as ‘Quinkan country’ and is renowned for its ancient Aboriginal rock art galleries, considered among the world’s finest. The ‘Split Rock’ site about 10km south of Laura is open to the public. To learn more about the region’s history and culture, visit the Quinkan Regional and Cultural Centre to organise a site tour. If you are interested in these areas you will need to contact them prior to starting your trip.</p>
<p>Another of Laura’s highlights is the annual Horse Races and Rodeo which are held on the first weekend of July, and the Indigenous Dance and Cultural Festival held every two years.</p>
<p>Follow the Peninsula Development Road south to the tiny township of Lakeland Downs, in the heart of the Laura River Valley. This is now a major coffee and banana growing region.</p>
<p>The final 80 km back to Cooktown crosses four rivers – the West Normanby, East Normanby, Little Annan and Big Annan. Allow time for a few stops in the last 30km – Black Mountain National Park, the historic Lion’s Den Hotel (a 4km detour from the main road) and finally Keating’s Lagoon.</p>
<h3>Enjoy the whole Great Tropical Drive</h3>
<p>Follow the Great Tropical Drive for 12 days and 2079 kilometres to some of Australia’s best known attractions – the Great Barrier Reef, Daintree Rainforest, Hinchinbrook Island and Undara Lava Tubes – and be prepared for many unexpected discoveries along the way.</p>
<p>The Great Tropical Drive passes through six unique regions of North Queensland: <br /> Cooktown, Port Douglas and Daintree, Cairns and Beaches, Mission Beach and the Cassowary Coast, Tropical Tablelands and Savannah Country, Townsville, Charters Towers and Hinchinbrook.</p>
<p>Information courtesy of <a href="http://http//www.cairnsgreatbarrierreef.org.au/" target="_blank">Tourism Tropical North Queensland</a></p>

<h3>Day 1. Cooktown Orientation</h3>
<p>Start with a visit to the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cooktown/naturespowerhouse" title="Nature&apos;s Powerhouse Cooktown Botanic Gardens">Botanic Gardens and Nature’s Powerhouse</a> which houses the Charles Tanner Wildlife of Cape York Exhibition and Vera Scarth-Johnson Gallery.</p>
<p>There are several walks in the Botanic Gardens and also trails which lead to the beautiful beaches at Finch Bay and Cherry Tree Bay.</p>
<p>In the afternoon take a leisurely stroll in the footsteps of Captain Cook along Charlotte Street to orientate yourself and admire the historical buildings and sites.</p>
<p>Children can be entertained by the Musical Ship and children’s playground at the waterfront, and several cafes along Charlotte Street and at the wharf offer refreshments.</p>
<p>Allow plenty of time for a visit to the world-class <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/museums/cooktown-museum" target="_self">Cooktown Museum</a>, with its fantastic displays which include the anchor and cannon from the HMS Bark Endeavour, and the story of Cook’s arrival from the perspective of the Guugu Yimithirr people.</p>
<p>End the day on <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cooktown/grassy-hill" title="Grassy Hill">Grassy Hill,</a> with its panoramic views and superb sunset vistas.</p>
<h3>Day 2. Hopevale Nugal-warra Rock Art Tour and Elim Beach<b><br /></b></h3>
<p> Aboriginal tours</p>
<p>Just 45 mins from Cooktown, outside Hopevale, are the incredible <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours" title="Guurrbi Tours">Nugal-warra rock art sites</a>, which can be visited with Nugal-warra Elder Willie Gordon, whose tours are deservedly featured as One of Australia’s Must-Do Experiences, and not to be missed when staying in Cooktown.</p>
<p>The nearby community of <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/history/aboriginalculturehopevale" title="Aboriginal Culture - Hope Vale & Elim Beach">Hope Vale</a> has an Arts and Cultural Centre which supports local artists, and the magnificent Coloured Sands at <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/hopevale/index" title="Hope Vale and Elim Beach">Elim Beach</a> are well worth a visit (4wd only).  <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/waterfalls/index" title="Waterfalls">Isabella Falls</a><b><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/waterfalls/index" title="Waterfalls"> </a></b>is a great place for a picnic and a swim.</p>
<h3>Day 3. Go Fishing/Boating</h3>
<p> Cooktown fishing</p>
<p>Cooktown is famous as a world class fishing destination – join those in the know who come from all corners of the globe to experience sports fishing at its best. A few hours on the water is a relaxing trip and one of the best ways to appreciate the stunning natural surroundings from a different perspective.</p>
<p>Whether you take a guided trip with one of several fishing companies<b> </b>in town, hire a dinghy for the day, or bring your own boat, the fishing is a great experience for the whole family.</p>
<p>Alternatively take a nature boat cruise on the Endeavour River crocodile spotting, bird watching and casting a casual line for the estuarine fish.</p>
<h3>Day 4. And so much more to choose from!<b><br /></b></h3>
<p> Rainforest walk</p>
<p>Also to be considered are <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours/hiddenvalleytrailrides">horse riding trails</a>, farmstays, hiking up <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/walks/mountcook">Mount Cook</a>, a visit to the mysterious <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/black-mountain-national-park" title="Black Mountain National Park, (Kalkajaka N.P.)">Black Mountain National Park</a> and birdwatching at <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/walks/keatings-lagoon-walk" title="Keatings Lagoon (Mulbabidgee) Walk">Keatings Lagoon</a>.</p>
<p>Visitors are very welcome to a <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/sports/cooktown-golf" title="Cooktown Golf Links">round of golf</a><b><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/sports/cooktown-golf" title="Cooktown Golf Links"> </a></b>at the picturesque links course at Walker Bay, or you can enjoy a game of bowls at <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/sports/bowls" title="Cooktown Bowls Club">Cooktown’s Bowls Club</a>.</p>
<p>Take the kids to our beautiful beaches at Finch Bay, Cherry Tree Bay, Quarantine Bay and Walker Bay but swimming is not advised.</p>
<p>More options include <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/walks/scenic-rim-walking-trail" title="Scenic Rim Walking Trail">The Scenic Rim</a> walking trail, fishing on the Annan river or from the wharf – or simply enjoying a ‘coldie’ with the locals in one of the pubs.</p>
<p>You could take one of the suggested <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/self-drive/index" title="Self Drive Cooktown and Cape York Peninsula">self-drive itineraries</a><b>.</b> Or if you haven’t already done so, head off to explore the Wet Tropics<b> </b>on Cooktown’s doorstep. There are several waterfalls and swimming holes in the nearby vicinity.</p>
<p>Hike up to the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/walks/homerulefalls">Home Rule</a> waterfalls or walk one of the trails around the Mungumby Valley which offer superb bird watching. Seek the elusive Bennett’s Tree Climbing Kangaroo at Shipton Flats, or for experienced bushwalkers go hiking in the incredible <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/cedar-bay" title="Cedar Bay National Park">Cedar Bay National Park</a>.</p>
<p>No trip to the area is complete without a visit to the historic <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/rainforestcoast/lionsden" title="The Lions Den Hotel">Lions Den Hotel</a> in Helenvale, and there are a couple of <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/rainforestcoast/mungumby">rainforest retreats</a> in the region for an overnight stay.</p>

<p>Rinyirru (Lakefield) is of considerable Aboriginal cultural significance, and the park has many places associated with occupation, ceremonies and ancestral spirits. Hann Crossing and Kalpowar Crossing are two such significant sites.</p>
<p>The Park is located in the Laura Basin 6-7 hours north of Cairns. There are several access points: via Laura and the Peninsula Development Road; from Cooktown along Battle Camp Road; on the Lakeland-Laura Road, or from Coen via the Musgrave Roadhouse. Access is only during the dry season, normally May to November, but early or late rains might render some of the tracks impassable. 4WD is highly recommended.</p>
<p>Fishing is permitted at all camping grounds with barramundi and catfish the most common species caught. Boat tours and hire are not available, but you are welcome to bring your own boat.</p>
<p> Kalpowar Crossing Camping Lakefield National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>There are bush camping areas at 12 Mile Waterhole, Old Faithful Waterhole, Mick Fienn and Dingo Waterholes, Kalpowar Crossing Campground, 7 Mile Waterhole and  Hann Crossing. Camping is no longer via self-registration; you now need to register either online, at a QPWS office, or by phone. Visit the <a href="http://nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/rinyirru-lakefield/camping.html#all_camping_must_now_be">Parks web site</a> for further information.</p>

<p>The Hope Vale Arts & Cultural Centre is at the heart of Guugu Yimithirr culture and actively involves Aboriginal people of all ages in passing on the cultural traditions and promoting the use and teaching of the Guugu Yimithirr language, which is alive and spoken daily by many local people. The Centre offers a space to learn ancient skills, such as gathering and weaving of local fibres and dyeing them with bush dyes, and modern skills such as printing, etching and contemporary art techniques.</p>
<p>The long and strong tradition of Aboriginal Artists born of this country and of the Guugu Yimithirr, include Derek Rosendale, Evelyn McGreen, Harold Bowen, Shane “Duka” Gibson, Madge Bowen, Ben McGreen, John Allums, Godfrey Gordon, Ken Walsh, Tulo Gordon, Sid McIvor, Walter Jack and <a href="http://www.hopevalearts.com/artists.html#roymcivor" target="_blank">Roy McIvor</a>. With many talented, younger artists emerging, Hope Vale envisions a bright future for its culture.</p>
<p>Visitors are welcome to visit the Centre weekdays, <br /> between the hours of 9am and 4.30pm, at Flierl Street, Hope Vale.</p>

<p>Cooktown boasts a number of beautifully maintained historic buildings including the fabulous Cooktown Museum on Helen St and the Old Bank in Charlotte St.</p>
<p>The Cooktown Museum is open daily, located in the carefully restored St Marys Convent, on the corner of Helen and Furneaux Streets. Displays feature artefacts, images and information, depicting the time James Cook spent here in 1770 repairing the Endeavour and interacting with the local Aboriginal people. The discovery of Gold at the Palmer River gave rise to the birth of Cooktown over 100 years later. Museum exhibits tell some fascinating aspects of the local Chinese, European and Aboriginal histories of this region. The restored Endeavour anchor and one of her 6 cannons are features of the Cooktown Museum.</p>
<p>The Cooktown and District Historical Society have mounted a magnificent exhibition -Cooktown through the Years-in the stately 19th Century Historic Bank building in Charlotte Street. Open from Easter through to October. All visitors and tour groups are welcome. </p>
<p>Nature’s Powerhouse is located in the historic Botanical Gardens and features the works of Vera Scarth Johnson who gifted her detailed botanical artworks to the people of Cooktown. </p>
<p>Artists and Craftspeople abound in the area, inspired by the landscapes, colours and stories. </p>
<p>The Old Railway Station Building in Charlotte Street is the perfect outlet for the artistic members of the Cooktown Creative Arts Association. Run by volunteers and the artists it is a treasure trove of local creations.</p>
<p>The Elizabeth Guzeley Gallery is located next to the Cooktown Post Office on Charlotte St and regularly holds exhibitions of local artworks, an annual Art Awards competition and co ordinates the Cooktown Art Festival.</p>
<p>The Black Cockatoo Gallery is a hidden gem for those exploring the Bloomfield & Ayton areas. Artist Ross Franzi and friends have created a stunning gallery with some wonderful sculptures, fabulous paintings and stunning pieces inspired by the unique, untouched environs of the region.</p>
<p>The Quinkan and Regional Cultural Centre at Laura displays and sells works by local Aboriginal artists. It is open daily from 9am with flexible summertime hours.</p>

<p>Make this your first stop in Laura for information on the region. A select range of Aboriginal arts and crafts are available for sale, and you can book guided tours to some of the world famous rock art sites in the region.</p>
<p>The centre has several interpretive displays with information on the Quinkan rock art galleries, local families and tribal elders, the gold rush days and cattle stations. A DVD showcases the Laura region and children can even learn traditional dancesteps.</p>
<p><b>Ph: (07) 4051 8471</b></p>
<p><strong>Peninsula Development Road, Laura, QLD, 4871</strong></p>

<p>The road to the goldfields was extremely hazardous, the transportation of goods was expensive, difficult and time consuming. When officials refused to upgrade the road, pressure mounted for an inland railway. The Government, realising the richness of the Palmer fields and a large voting population, finally agreed to build a railway.</p>
<p>Alderman D’Arcy, Mayor of Cooktown ‘turned the first sod’ of the rail line on 4 April 1884. Due to labour shortages and the wet season the first section between Cooktown and the Palmer Road, 48 km (30 miles), was not completed until November 1885. In the first month of operation the section carried more than 570 passengers and 125 tonnes of goods!</p>
<p>Within three years the line was extended to Laura with stations at Sandown, Sandy Creek and Welcome. It was here construction ran into difficulty. There was a change of government and concern grew over escalating costs. It was estimated that the 75 km of line from Laura to Maytown would cost almost £lm sterling ($2m).</p>
<p>After much debate, Parliament decided that the Maytown line would be built when a feasible route was found and in the mean time agreed to build the Laura River bridge at the cost of 12,500 pounds.</p>
<p><b>Normaby</b><b> River Rail Bridge</b><b><br /> </b>The bridge, comprising five 80ft spans of iron lattice girders on concrete piers, was 536ft long and 55ft high. It took 17 months to build and was ready by October 1891. A locomotive and rolling stock were sent across it as a test – the maximum deflection at full speed being half an inch. That 90 ton train was the first and the last to cross the bridge. Although Cooktown people lobbied long and hard to have the line completed, the Cooktown Railway had effectively come to a full stop.</p>
<p>However, the railway was an important element of early Cooktown. By 1885, the landscape was dotted with related facilities – station and residence, carriage and engine sheds, wells, a coal stage, horse ramp, railway store, goods shed, weighbridge, double-tier tank-stand and a crane for the wharf.</p>
<p><b>RM6 ‘Captain Cook’</b><b><br /> </b>As passenger and cargo tonnage figures dropped and operating expenses rose, it was decided to close the line. The government offered a lease of the line and rolling stock to the Cooktown council for 1 pound per week. Council assumed control of the railway in September 1903.</p>
<p>The first motor on the Cooktown Railway, RM6, Captain Cook, was converted from a Napier motor car at Ipswich workshops in 1916, and went into service at Cooktown in November of that year. Captain Cook ran until 1924, travelling 80,000 miles on theCcooktown Railway, this is in addition to over 100,000 miles covered as a road vehicle.</p>
<p> <b>“Captain Cook” at Alderbury 1916-1930</b><b><br /> </b>After about 12 months – during which time the council made a profit – the government resumed control of the railway but it never really picked up again and by 1960 the government was ready to close the line again – this time for good.</p>
<p>After a stop/start history spanning 76 years to 1961, the Cooktown railway was sold for scrap. A sorry end for what could have been a major tourist drawcard to the area today. The station was sold and removed. However, the top section was relocated to Anzac Park and now houses the Cooktown Creative Arts Association.</p>
<p><i>Sources:</i><i><br /> <i>Knowles, J W, 1980, The Cooktown Railway, 2nd edition, Brisbane.</i><br /> <i>Cooktown Library, 1996, The Cooktown Railway.</i><br /> <i>Ruig, J L, 1991, Cooktown to Laura Railway.</i></i></p>