<p>Willie takes you to his ancestral rock art sites, high in the hills outside Cooktown. Here he shares the stories behind the art, and explains how the paintings speak of the essence of life and the lores of his people. With his great smile and infectious laugh, Willie will give you an amazing insight into Aboriginal society and spirituality, and show you how we all have a connection to the land, wherever we come from.</p>

<p>Listen and learn as your host Gerry introduces you to Nature’s Storehouse. Take a step back in time with your hostess Irene as she relates what it was really like growing up an Aboriginal under missionary rule. Maaramaka Walkabout Tours endeavours to preserve the knowledge of the flora and fauna found within Nature’s Storehouse – the bush and rainforest including the sand dunes. <br /> Gerry has a wealth of knowledge with regards to the many species of plants and trees to be found in our Rainforests and bushland.</p>
<p><b>Ph: (07) 4069 5381 or (07) 4060 9389</p>
<p></b></p>

<p>The Walker women are committed to educating their guests who walk with them along the track to the Bloomfield Falls. As they travel over their ancestral land, they explain in a truly delightful way the lifestyle of the Yalanji people of Wujal Wujal.</p>
<p>What’s unique about this tour is guests are experiencing part of the family’s everyday lifestyle and their deep connection with the land.</p>
<p>Bloomfield Falls Tour – 30 mins tour departing daily year round.</p>
<p>Rainforest Walk – 2 hour tour departs daily at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. April to September</p>

<p>This is an easy 30 min return path walk of less than 1 km.</p>
<p>This is a place of great significance for the Kuku Yalanji people who have lived here for thousands of years, and although you can see the falls unaccompanied, the 30 minute tours offered by the <b>Walker Family</b>, traditional custodians of the area, will open your eyes to the surroundings and give you a better understanding of this beautiful area.</p>
<p><b>Guided Walk: </b></p>
<p><b>Wujal Wujal, With the Walker Family</b></p>
<p>The Walker Family, a close-knit group of wonderfully warm and friendly people, are members of the Kuku Yalanji clan who have lived in this area for tens of thousands of years. Their traditional lands are part of the beautiful World Heritage rainforest area, and encompass the Bloomfield Falls, after which Wujal Wujal is named. The Walkers will take you on a bush walk with a difference, giving you the opportunity to listen and talk to the traditional custodians of the area, and receive a fascinating insight into the history and the many different uses of plant species for food, medicine and ceremonial purposes. This is an opportunity to see the rainforest through their eyes, and to learn about the cultural significance of this area.</p>
<p><b>Bloomfield</b><b> Falls</b><b> Tour</b><br /> The Walkers share some of their knowledge about this special place which is of great cultural significance to the Yalanji people. 30 minute tours depart daily throughout the year. Departure times are flexible. The tour includes a short walk on uneven ground.</p>
<p>There is no access to the falls in the wet season.</p>
<p><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Easy</p>
<p><b>Distance:</b> 400 metre (return)</p>
<p><b>Duration:</b> 15 minutes (return)</p>
<p><b>Access:</b> Self Guided or Guided</p>
<p><b>Trail Management Contact:</b><i> </i>Wujal Wujal Shire Council</p>

<p>This walk is only recommended for self reliant walkers with extensive bushwalking experience.</p>
<p>The trail to Cedar Bay starts at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge and walkers are requested to stop at the lodge for directions to the starting point. The strenuous, 28 kilometre return walk takes 6 to 8 hours walking time each way. It is essential to start the walk in the morning, the earlier the better, to arrive at the bay before nightfall. Because the trail is not well-used some sections are indistinct, so make sure you don’t lose sight of the orange markers. It is rough undulating country, so wear strong hiking boots and protective clothing. Carry everything you need, but take lightweight gear as it is a long way to carry a heavy pack.</p>
<p><b>Home Rule to Slaty Creek – 1¾ hours </b></p>
<p>The walk starts on an old logging track and heads straight into the rainforest. The track splits a few minutes into the walk – go right. Shortly, the track splits again – go left. A few more minutes brings you to Wallaby Creek. About 10 minutes beyond Wallaby Creek the track forks again – go left.</p>
<p>After the track crosses another small creek it swings north, climbing straight to the top of a moderately steep ridge. From this point it swings east at ninety degrees and starts to descend, passing amongst large rainforest trees, tree ferns and Licuala palms.</p>
<p>About 1 hour into the walk you come to a narrow gully spanned by two thin metal pipes. From here a narrow trail continues on from the old logging track. The trail heads north to Slaty Creek, about 1¾ hours from Home Rule.</p>
<p><b>Slaty Creek to Black Snake Rocks – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>After crossing Slaty Creek the trail swings east and follows the creek for about 1·5 kilometres to the junction of Slaty and Granite Creeks, where there is an excellent campsite. Beyond the junction the trail meanders through forest beside Granite Creek for a while and then gets rougher as it winds through scattered granite boulders, crossing a few small creeks. Eventually the trail scales a slope covered with huge granite boulders and arrives at Black Snake Rocks.</p>
<p>Black Snake Rocks is an open area, with a creek and a good campsite, but (obviously) be aware that snakes do bask on the rocks. The creek next to the campsite is the last reliable water source before Ashwell Creek at Cedar Bay.</p>
<p><b>Black Snake Rocks to Cedar Bay – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>Beyond the campsite the trail meanders across a flat densely forested plateau. This area was extensively mined in the past and remnants of miners’ activities crop up regularly. Most noticeable are water diverting channels dug by tin miners early last century. The trail runs alongside a channel just before it reaches a clearing crisscrossed with trenches full of ferns, a trap for unwary legs.</p>
<p>On the eastern side of the clearing scraps of corrugated iron and abandoned cooking implements mark where the trail re-enters the forest. The trail continues alongside a smaller channel before swinging southeast along a broad ridge to the top of the range overlooking Cedar Bay. Unfortunately, there is no position where you can get more than a tantalising glimpse of the coast. From here the trail descends a spur to the bay, another 1½ to 2 hours away.</p>
<p>The steep descent to the bay is eased by a set of switchbacks carved into the hillside, another legacy of the mining era. Supplies were transported to the mines by packhorse, and the ore removed by return journey. It is difficult to imagine a horse climbing these steep inclines, let alone carrying a load. Further down, the switchbacks end and the trail straightens as it approaches the bottom of the coastal range.</p>
<p>Ashwell Creek is only a short distance from the base of the range. Fill your water containers here, as the water in the creeks near the ocean is brackish (and may conceal crocodiles).</p>
<p>Cross the creek, swing left and follow the trail to the beach. There are remnants of Cedar Bay Bill’s hut on the southern bank of Ashwell Creek near the crossing. The trail emerges at the northern end of the beach amongst a grove of pandanus palms next to Cedar Bay Bill’s monument, which bears the epitaph “Strange to the world, he wore a bashful look – the sea and shore his study, nature his book”.</p>
<p>Cedar Bay Bill was a tin miner, famous for accepting and befriending a utopian hippy community that attempted to flee society and build a Shangrila at Cedar Bay in the early 1970s. Whatever it was they believed in didn’t suit the government of the day, who sent select law enforcers to destroy the campsites and disband the community, an action that annoyed all but the most conservative citizens of the time. Bill retained his miners lease until his death in 1987, and the story of the commune has entered folkloric mythology. This has given the bay a special allure, and many walkers come specifically to pay homage to the site.</p>
<p>Although it is a national park, Cedar Bay is still a remote tropical paradise with a 3 kilometre palm fringed beach. A stroll along the beach reveals sheltered campsites – just camp well away from the swamps and be wary of falling coconuts.</p>
<p>This is a tranquil place where campers can now contemplate the irrelevance of time and appreciate the moment without fear of government gunboats, but do remember, you need a camping permit and park rules state that there can be no fishing or collecting within the park.</p>
<p><b>Specific Features: </b>Beautiful tropical rainforest, rugged mountains and a palm fringed beach.</p>
<p><i>Mangkalba </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Strenuous</p>
<p><b>Distance:</b> 28 Kilometre (Return)</p>
<p><b>Duration:</b> 6-8 hours each way</p>
<p><b>Access:</b> Self Guided – (*Permit required)</p>
<ul>
<li>This track begins on the private property of the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge. The lodge managers allow access via their property and provide detailed advice to walkers.</li>
<li><b>Water Taxi</b> – Cedar Bay Transfers – <br /> Either one way for bushwalkers not interested in the return leg of the walking track or Return – get delivered to or collected from Cedar Bay on your nominated day. Ph: 07 4060 8252</li>
<li><b>Alternate Route </b>– Gap Creek Track. Only for the very experienced bush walker and <b>should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast.</b> It crosses several creeks and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather. For details and advice contact Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service or visit <a href="http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html">www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Facilities:</b> No facilities</p>
<ul>
<li>*Bush camping is permitted in the park, but a camping permit must be obtained two weeks in advance from the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service office in Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</li>
<li>Overnight camping at the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge is allowed by prior arrangement with the owners, allowing walkers an early morning start. Phone 07 4060-3925.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Trail Management Contact:</b><i> </i>Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service – Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</p>
<p> Map of Cedar Bay walking trail courtesy Footloose publications</p>

<p>It is also a popular camping spot, and the Elim Beach campground, is right on the water’s edge with fabulous views to Cape Bedford, providing the perfect base from which to explore the area.</p>
<p>The mesmerising dune formations of the Coloured Sands are a 300 metre walk along the beach. The large expanse of beach faces Cape Bedford and at low tide the shallows provide plenty of exploration with numerous starfish, crabs, sea cucumbers and marine life to find.</p>
<p><strong>Special Features: </strong>Spectacular sunset and sunrise, culture and history</p>
<p><strong>Difficulty Level:</strong> Easy</p>
<p><strong>Distance: </strong>600 metre return</p>
<p><strong>Duration:</strong> 30 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Access:</strong> Self Guided and Guided</p>
<p><strong>Facilities:</strong> Campground with amenities</p>
<p><strong>Trail Management, Bookings and Enquires </strong></p>

<p>From the lodge, walk along the eastern edge of the dam, turn left and follow the dam wall to the hydro-electric generator shed, where a sign on the ground at the edge of the forest points the way to the falls. The distinct track follows a water pipeline to the falls. It is a gradual climb to an impressive three-tiered waterfall that plunges into a deep pool between gorge walls of vertical slate.</p>
<p><b>Specific Features: </b>Beautiful tropical rainforest with refreshing swimming opportunities</p>
<p><b> </b>Home Rule Rainforest Lodge has accommodation, meals and camping facilities with a fully equipped self-catering kitchen and coin laundry, situated in shady parkland beside Wallaby Creek.</p>
<p><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Moderate</p>
<p><b>Distance:</b> 2.6 Kilometre</p>
<p><b>Duration:</b> 1½ hours (return)</p>
<p><b>Access:</b> Self Guided – (Must register at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge)</p>
<p><b>Facilities:</b> No facilities (Accommodation and camping facilities at walk start)</p>
<p> Map of walking trail to Home Rule Falls courtesy Footloose publications</p>

<p>Rinyirru (Lakefield) is of considerable Aboriginal cultural significance, and the park has many places associated with occupation, ceremonies and ancestral spirits. Hann Crossing and Kalpowar Crossing are two such significant sites.</p>
<p>The Park is located in the Laura Basin 6-7 hours north of Cairns. There are several access points: via Laura and the Peninsula Development Road; from Cooktown along Battle Camp Road; on the Lakeland-Laura Road, or from Coen via the Musgrave Roadhouse. Access is only during the dry season, normally May to November, but early or late rains might render some of the tracks impassable. 4WD is highly recommended.</p>
<p>Fishing is permitted at all camping grounds with barramundi and catfish the most common species caught. Boat tours and hire are not available, but you are welcome to bring your own boat.</p>
<p> Kalpowar Crossing Camping Lakefield National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>There are bush camping areas at 12 Mile Waterhole, Old Faithful Waterhole, Mick Fienn and Dingo Waterholes, Kalpowar Crossing Campground, 7 Mile Waterhole and  Hann Crossing. Camping is no longer via self-registration; you now need to register either online, at a QPWS office, or by phone. Visit the <a href="http://nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/rinyirru-lakefield/camping.html#all_camping_must_now_be">Parks web site</a> for further information.</p>

<p>Many travellers start their Tropical Far North Queensland and Cape York adventure from Cairns. There are 2 routes north from Cairns.</p>
<p>The Coastal route via Cape Tribulation, the Daintree Rainforest and the Bloomfield Track to Cooktown requires 4WD and is incredibly scenic. This is the only place in Australia where you can experience the splendour of tropical rainforest while being just a stone’s throw from the World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef.</p>
<p>See the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/self-drive/great-tropical-drive-discovery">Great Tropical Drive Discovery Trail</a> and <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/self-drive/great-tropical-daintree">Great Tropical Drive Daintree Trail</a> for further information.</p>
<p>The Inland route via the fully sealed <a href="http://www.queenslandonline.net/mulligan/" target="_blank">Mulligan Highway</a> gives the option of turning off at Lakeland towards Laura or continuing to Cooktown from where you can take the 4WD Battlecamp Road on to Laura.</p>
<h3>Cairns – Laura and Quinkan Country</h3>
<p>Drive from Cairns through World Heritage-listed tropical rainforest out to Mareeba then join the sealed Mulligan Highway north through rolling savannah to Quinkan Country and the 30,000-year-old rock art galleries at the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/lake_laura/splitrockgallery">Split Rock</a> sandstone escarpment. Tours to other incredible rock art sites such as the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/lake_laura/gianthorserockart">Giant Horse</a> and <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/lake_laura/mushroomrockphotos">Mushroom Rock</a> galleries can be booked through the Quinkan Regional and Cultural Centre. </p>
<p>Camp either at Laura or in nearby Lakefield National Park, or alternatively split the journey at Lakeland where there is a caravan park where you can store your caravan.</p>
<p>It is approx 310 km from Cairns-Laura and approx 330 km Cairns-Cooktown on the Mulligan Highway route.</p>
<h3>Laura-Lakefield – Musgrave Station</h3>
<p>Explore Queensland’s second largest National Park <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/lakefieldphotos">Lakefield</a> with it’s rivers, lagoons and swamps is a wildlife refuge and home to several threatened species. <br /> There is prolific birdlife, and both estuarine and saltwater crocodiles, with plenty of barramundi in the rivers. Recreational fishing is permitted at all camping areas with barramundi and catfish the most common species caught.<br /> Permits for camping must be pre booked through <a href="https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/experiences/camping/camping_bookings.html" target="_blank">Queensland National Parks</a> . 4WD is essential and campers need to be fully self sufficient. There are several scenic campsites in the Park.</p>
<p>From the Kalpower Crossing in Lakefield N.P. you can continue for a real adventure out to <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/cape-melville">Cape Melville N.P.</a> and great fishing spots at Bathurst Heads. This is extremely remote so you will need to be fully self sufficient.</p>
<p>Drive on from Lakefield to <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cape-york-peninsula/musgrave-roadhouse">Musgrave’s historic telegraph station</a>.</p>
<p>Alternatively you can continue on the Peninsula Development Road up to Musgrave, approx 140km. Stop in at the Hann River Roadhouse for refreshments, 76 km past Laura.</p>
<h3>Musgrave Station to Coen</h3>
<p> The PDR continues for around 100km to the Cape outpost of <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cape/coen">Coen</a>. There are campsites and basic accommodation in Coen as well as a post office, general store, mechanical services and petrol station. The beautifully restored Heritage House provides a glimpse back to the days gone by and an exhibition of old mining equipment is on display next door to the Heritage House.</p>
<p>An option on this stretch of road is to turn off towards Port Stewart and there are some lovely camping spots along the Stewart River.</p>
<h3> Coen – Bramwell Junction</h3>
<p> Visit the Cape York Information Centre and Quarantine Inspection Station 20-km north of the township to find out more about this area.</p>
<p>Friendly staff here can offer advice on places to visit and road conditions.</p>
<p>About 5km past the Quarantine Station is the turn off for <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/mungkan-kandju">Mungkan Kandju N.P.</a> which is a noted bird watching area. There are several campsites in the Park and access is 4WD only.</p>
<p>66km further along the Peninsula Development Road from Coen, meals, camping and accommodation are available at <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cape-york-peninsula/archer-river">Archer River Roadhouse</a> as well as facilities for minor mechanical repairs.</p>
<p>The PDR continues all the way up to Bramwell Junction but it is worth taking the turn offs to fully appreciate Cape York Peninsula. At the Wenlock River on the PDR, <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cape-york-peninsula/moreton-station">Moreton Telegraph station</a> is a popular campsite.</p>
<h3><strong>Lockhart</strong><strong> River and Portland Roads Route</strong></h3>
<p>About 35 km north of the Archer River is the turn off to Lockhart River, Portland Roads and Iron Range N.P.</p>
<p>The first river crossing is at the Wenlock River and just past this there is a track which leads to the old Batavia goldfields where you can still see some of the old mining equipment.</p>
<p>The next river crossing is at the Pascoe River – this is a longer stretch with a sandy bed. The track then leads towards <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/ironrangephotos">Iron Range N.P.</a> with some spectacular scenery and Australia’s largest area of lowland rainforest. The campsites at Chilli Beach are very popular and there is great bird watching with 15 endemic species, and some interesting walking trails in the Park.</p>
<p>Lockhart River is an Aboriginal community famous for the incredible array of artistic talent produced by the Lockhart River Art Gang. A visit to the <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/markets/lockhartriver">Arts Centre</a> is a great experience. There is also a supermarket and fuel in the town.</p>
<p>Portland Roads is a beautiful little fishing community with a couple of beach shacks for rent and a fantastic <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/dining/cape-york-peninsula/portland-roads-cafe">restaurant</a>.</p>
<h3>Weipa and Merluna Route</h3>
<p>The turn off to <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/Weipa/weipa">Weipa</a> is around 50km north of Archer River. The family operated Merluna cattle station is located off the Weipa road and also offers accommodation and camping. From Merluna you can drive to<strong> </strong>the bauxite mining town of Weipa, with modern facilities and fantastic fishing. This is a good place to stock up on supplies or enjoy the world class fishing.<br /> From Weipa you can drive east through Batavia Downs Cattle Station to Moreton Telegraph Station, on the Wenlock River or continue from Merluna on the Telegraph Road up to <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cape-york-peninsula/bramwell-station">Bramwell Station</a> or <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/np/jardine-river">Jardine National Park</a>.</p>
<h3>PDR Bypass Roads</h3>
<p>From Bramwell Junction you can either take the challenging <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cape/old-telegraph-track">Old Telegraph Line</a> 4WD route or the PDR Bypass roads which are maintained to a good standard. The Bypass roads are around 260 km from Bramwell Junction to the Jardine ferry which can take up to 5 hours.</p>
<p>Interesting side trips from the Southern Bypass road include the turn off to Captain Billy Landing where there is a campsite.</p>
<p>The Old Telegraph Line</p>
<p>The Old Telegraph Line really starts after Bramwell Junction and continues up to the Jardine River. It is important to have a properly equipped 4WD for this adventurous route but most travellers to the Cape will take the OTL north then return by the bypass roads.</p>
<p>Driving north you will need to negotiate several creek crossings, some of which have challenging entry and exit points.</p>
<p>Palm Creek is the first crossing, then you face the Ducie River, South Alice Creek and North Alice Creek. After around 30 km from Bramwell Junction you come to the Dulhunty River which is a popular spot to camp.</p>
<p>Next is Bertie Creek and after this there is the option of the Gunshot bypass or continue on the OTL to Cholmondely Creek. The infamous Gunshot Creek is the next crossing – this is probably the most challenging crossing on the OTL. Then you continue to Cockatoo Creek, another challenging crossing, and the final creek crossing is the bridge over Sailor Creek.</p>
<p>The section from Bramwell Junction to the intersection with the Northern Bypass Road is approx 80 km which can take up to 5 hours depending on conditions.</p>
<p>At this junction there is a track to Heathlands Reserve and the lovely Fruit Bat Falls which offers a refreshing swim stop on the way to the campground at Eliot Falls and Twin Falls.</p>
<p> Fruit Bat Falls, Jardine River National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>The OTL continues from Eliot Falls through the rough Canal Creek, then you face crossings at Sam Creek, Mistake Creek, the aptly named Cannibal Creek, the rickety old bridge over Cypress Creek, Logan Creek and Nolan’s Brook before emerging at the Jardine River. A track then leads back to the Northern Bypass road and the Jardine River ferry.</p>
<p>The section from Eliot Falls to the Jardine River is approx 40 km and can take up to 4 hours depending on conditions.</p>
<h3>Jardine River – Bamaga/Seisia/Tip of Cape York</h3>
<p>Cross the Jardine River by cable ferry and head to the northernmost <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/tipofaustralia">Tip of Australia</a>.</p>
<p>Ferry tickets can be purchased online <a href="https://www.nparc.qld.gov.au/services/travel-transport/ferry-ticket" target="_blank">here</a>. The ferry operates from 08.00-12.00 and then from 13.00 – 17.00, daily in the dry season.</p>
<p>Contact the Northern Peninsula Area Regional Council for further information – phone 07 4090 4100. </p>
<p>The drive from the Jardine ferry to Bamaga is about 42 km and Seisia is 6km north of Bamaga.</p>
<p>There are several camping and accommodation options in Bamaga, Seisia, Loyalty Beach and Punsand Bay with guided tours, hire cars and fishing available within the area.<br /> As well as the great fishing there are several WW2 sites, pioneer mining sites and old telegraph memorabilia to visit. Long stretches of deserted beach and the Lockerbie Scrub Rainforest Trail provide good walking options. The historic Somerset beach is another popular site to visit.</p>
<p>The Tip of mainland Australia is 32km from Bamaga and 7km north of Lockerbie – the must see destination for all visitors to Cape York Peninsula.</p>
<p>Having made it to The Tip spend a few days to enjoy the whole area and why not extend your trip to the Torres Straight Islands. <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/go/cape/thursday-island">Thursday Island</a> is just 30 km from Cape York Peninsula and easily accessible by ferry from Seisia.</p>