<p>This walk is only recommended for self reliant walkers with extensive bushwalking experience.</p>
<p>The trail to Cedar Bay starts at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge and walkers are requested to stop at the lodge for directions to the starting point. The strenuous, 28 kilometre return walk takes 6 to 8 hours walking time each way. It is essential to start the walk in the morning, the earlier the better, to arrive at the bay before nightfall. Because the trail is not well-used some sections are indistinct, so make sure you don’t lose sight of the orange markers. It is rough undulating country, so wear strong hiking boots and protective clothing. Carry everything you need, but take lightweight gear as it is a long way to carry a heavy pack.</p>
<p><b>Home Rule to Slaty Creek – 1¾ hours </b></p>
<p>The walk starts on an old logging track and heads straight into the rainforest. The track splits a few minutes into the walk – go right. Shortly, the track splits again – go left. A few more minutes brings you to Wallaby Creek. About 10 minutes beyond Wallaby Creek the track forks again – go left.</p>
<p>After the track crosses another small creek it swings north, climbing straight to the top of a moderately steep ridge. From this point it swings east at ninety degrees and starts to descend, passing amongst large rainforest trees, tree ferns and Licuala palms.</p>
<p>About 1 hour into the walk you come to a narrow gully spanned by two thin metal pipes. From here a narrow trail continues on from the old logging track. The trail heads north to Slaty Creek, about 1¾ hours from Home Rule.</p>
<p><b>Slaty Creek to Black Snake Rocks – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>After crossing Slaty Creek the trail swings east and follows the creek for about 1·5 kilometres to the junction of Slaty and Granite Creeks, where there is an excellent campsite. Beyond the junction the trail meanders through forest beside Granite Creek for a while and then gets rougher as it winds through scattered granite boulders, crossing a few small creeks. Eventually the trail scales a slope covered with huge granite boulders and arrives at Black Snake Rocks.</p>
<p>Black Snake Rocks is an open area, with a creek and a good campsite, but (obviously) be aware that snakes do bask on the rocks. The creek next to the campsite is the last reliable water source before Ashwell Creek at Cedar Bay.</p>
<p><b>Black Snake Rocks to Cedar Bay – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>Beyond the campsite the trail meanders across a flat densely forested plateau. This area was extensively mined in the past and remnants of miners’ activities crop up regularly. Most noticeable are water diverting channels dug by tin miners early last century. The trail runs alongside a channel just before it reaches a clearing crisscrossed with trenches full of ferns, a trap for unwary legs.</p>
<p>On the eastern side of the clearing scraps of corrugated iron and abandoned cooking implements mark where the trail re-enters the forest. The trail continues alongside a smaller channel before swinging southeast along a broad ridge to the top of the range overlooking Cedar Bay. Unfortunately, there is no position where you can get more than a tantalising glimpse of the coast. From here the trail descends a spur to the bay, another 1½ to 2 hours away.</p>
<p>The steep descent to the bay is eased by a set of switchbacks carved into the hillside, another legacy of the mining era. Supplies were transported to the mines by packhorse, and the ore removed by return journey. It is difficult to imagine a horse climbing these steep inclines, let alone carrying a load. Further down, the switchbacks end and the trail straightens as it approaches the bottom of the coastal range.</p>
<p>Ashwell Creek is only a short distance from the base of the range. Fill your water containers here, as the water in the creeks near the ocean is brackish (and may conceal crocodiles).</p>
<p>Cross the creek, swing left and follow the trail to the beach. There are remnants of Cedar Bay Bill’s hut on the southern bank of Ashwell Creek near the crossing. The trail emerges at the northern end of the beach amongst a grove of pandanus palms next to Cedar Bay Bill’s monument, which bears the epitaph “Strange to the world, he wore a bashful look – the sea and shore his study, nature his book”.</p>
<p>Cedar Bay Bill was a tin miner, famous for accepting and befriending a utopian hippy community that attempted to flee society and build a Shangrila at Cedar Bay in the early 1970s. Whatever it was they believed in didn’t suit the government of the day, who sent select law enforcers to destroy the campsites and disband the community, an action that annoyed all but the most conservative citizens of the time. Bill retained his miners lease until his death in 1987, and the story of the commune has entered folkloric mythology. This has given the bay a special allure, and many walkers come specifically to pay homage to the site.</p>
<p>Although it is a national park, Cedar Bay is still a remote tropical paradise with a 3 kilometre palm fringed beach. A stroll along the beach reveals sheltered campsites – just camp well away from the swamps and be wary of falling coconuts.</p>
<p>This is a tranquil place where campers can now contemplate the irrelevance of time and appreciate the moment without fear of government gunboats, but do remember, you need a camping permit and park rules state that there can be no fishing or collecting within the park.</p>
<p><b>Specific Features: </b>Beautiful tropical rainforest, rugged mountains and a palm fringed beach.</p>
<p><i>Mangkalba </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Strenuous</p>
<p><b>Distance:</b> 28 Kilometre (Return)</p>
<p><b>Duration:</b> 6-8 hours each way</p>
<p><b>Access:</b> Self Guided – (*Permit required)</p>
<ul>
<li>This track begins on the private property of the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge. The lodge managers allow access via their property and provide detailed advice to walkers.</li>
<li><b>Water Taxi</b> – Cedar Bay Transfers – <br /> Either one way for bushwalkers not interested in the return leg of the walking track or Return – get delivered to or collected from Cedar Bay on your nominated day. Ph: 07 4060 8252</li>
<li><b>Alternate Route </b>– Gap Creek Track. Only for the very experienced bush walker and <b>should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast.</b> It crosses several creeks and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather. For details and advice contact Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service or visit <a href="http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html">www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Facilities:</b> No facilities</p>
<ul>
<li>*Bush camping is permitted in the park, but a camping permit must be obtained two weeks in advance from the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service office in Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</li>
<li>Overnight camping at the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge is allowed by prior arrangement with the owners, allowing walkers an early morning start. Phone 07 4060-3925.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Trail Management Contact:</b><i> </i>Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service – Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</p>
<p> Map of Cedar Bay walking trail courtesy Footloose publications</p>

<p><i>Mangkalba</i><i> </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa</i><i> </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p>The Park is home to a wonderful variety of wildlife including the rare and elusive <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/animals/tree_kangaroo">Bennett’s tree kangaroo</a>, endangered southern cassowary and the beach stone-curlew. It lies between Cape Tribulation and Cooktown and is accessible only by boat or on foot via the Home Rule Walking Track. </p>
<p>Take the turnoff south to Helenvale from the Mulligan Highway, about 2 kms south of Black Mountain. Continue through Helenvale and Rossville. Once in Rossville there is a turnoff on your left to Home Rule rainforest lodge. The homestead and access to Cedar Bay North is 3 kms down this track.</p>
<p>The 17km (one way) walking track is a rough, steep and difficult track and should only be attempted by experienced walkers. </p>
<p> Creek flowing down the slopes of Mt Hartley in Cedar Bay National Park</p>
<p>Walking the track should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast, as it crosses several creeks, and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather.</p>
<p>Camping</p>
<p>Bush camping is available in coastal vegetation adjacent to the beach. No facilities are provided so campers must be self-sufficient.</p>
<p>Camping permits are required and fees apply. Permits are limited and it is recommended that you book at least two weeks in advance.</p>
<p>For further information, contact the <a href="http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/mangkalba/about.html" target="_blank">Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing</a>  </p>

<p>Mooks was raised on his traditional land where he learnt the old ways from his Grandparents, Uncles and elder family members.</p>
<p>He learnt about bush medicines and bush foods from them and he finds great joy sharing his knowledge of plants, his culture and the land.</p>
<p>As a tour guide, Mooks has over 40 years’ experience and in Kuku Nyungkul language he is known as a ‘Kuku bugga’ which means he loves to talk!</p>
<p>Throughout his life Mooks has always been a keen communicator of traditional culture, helping people from all walks of life, to make a deeper connection to country.</p>
<p>Tour options include a three hour tour and a 90 minute tour. Bookings essential.</p>
<p>Rossville Retreat also offers camping and bush lodges accommodation.</p>

<p>Bana Yirriji Art and Cultural Centre is a community and council run gallery and cultural centre with an artist studio. Come and visit the local bama artists and learn their culture. The art gallery is a great place to buy locally made jewellery and art. </p>
<p>Art Centre temporarily CLOSED – new centre location being sought.<br />Tropical Cyclone Jasper in December 2023 caused catastrophic damage to the Bana Yirriji Art Centre and Wujal Wujal Aboriginal Shire Council is working to find an alternate temporary location for artists to work from while funding is being sought to have a new centre constructed.</p>

<p>Courtesy Gone Fishing</p>
<p><b>Annan River</b></p>
<p>The Annan is situated 5 minutes south of Cooktown with a good boat ramp on the downside of the bridge.  Take care when navigating on a low tide as it is very shallow and rocky in places.  The Annan is a shorter estuarine system than the Endeavour and subtly different.  Barra fishing can be had up and down the river and out into the mouth at Walker Bay where some big saltwater barra can be had both on lures, fly and liveys.  Big jacks and fingermark are a common catch plus all your usual queenfish and trevally’s.  Good mud crabbing can be had especially after the first rains.  Upstream of the bridge extreme care should be taken, especially on low tide.  Some big deep holes and snags to fish; again liveys and lures can work well.  The mouth is sandy with the Esk river coming from the south and Saltwater creek from the north.    Generally runs a bit cleaner and warmer than the Endeavour.  Further information can be obtained from the Yuku Baja Muliku Ranger office</p>
<p><b>Archer Point</b></p>
<p>Following the road south out of Cooktown for 12 kms will bring you to the Archer Point turn off.  Follow the dirt road for a further 6 kms and you reach the beach where you can find some limited camping.  Beach launches are possible with a 4WD drive.  To get a good feel of the area go up to the lighthouse but hang on if it’s windy.  During the winter months there are frequent sightings of breaching humpback whales. With town so close for amenities this is an ideal spot to have that camping, fishing, and family experience. Visually, it’s fantastic, fringing reef, sand flats, small tributaries, the wet tropics. </p>
<p>More information can be sought from the traditional owners Yuku Baja Muliku (T: 07 4069 6910)</p>
<p><b>Tropical Islands</b></p>
<p> Hope Islands</p>
<p>Tropical Islands scatter this coastline and many are accessible by small boats when the weather allows.  Some like Lizard Island are big enough to house luxury resorts, airstrips and camp grounds whilst others are relatively small.  Camping is allowed on quite a few but booking in advance is necessary with QPWS.  Strict regulations are in place to protect these stunning locations and for further info contact GBRMPA/QPWS for zoning maps and camping restrictions.</p>
<p><b>Heli-fishing</b></p>
<p>Going in by chopper to that secret billabong, inaccessible headland or hard to access river mouth has to be one of the ultimate ways to travel and fish.  Getting there is usually very quick and spectacular, flying over dramatic escarpments, stunning rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef.  Flooded bridges and corrugated roads are no longer a problem and multiple fishing locations are possible in one day.  This surely will ensure a very memorable experience of fishing far north Queensland.</p>
<p>Half day charters through to extended holidays are available with several local companies offering packages for that once in a lifetime trip.</p>
<p><b>Reef Fishing</b></p>
<p> Cod and Nanygai</p>
<p>Unlike many spots along the eastern seaboard of the Great Barrier Reef Cooktown is the closest town to this iconic world heritage site ensuring your fishing time is maximised and not spent travelling.  Inshore reefs lie just a couple of miles out and even though they are close shouldn’t be overlooked.  However, travelling 10-15 miles out will certainly open up a lot more possibilities.</p>
<p>Fishing the reef is fairly straightforward usually it’s a matter of working out which way the current is running onto the face of the reef, (pressure point) where the majority of predators and baitfish will be and dropping the anchor so that you hang close to these marks.  Baits such as pilchards and squid work very well but those anglers wishing to experiment with soft plastics and jigs can also be rewarded with a multitude of species.</p>
<p>If however you want to chase red emperor and nannigai then a different approach is needed.  These fish tend to school up in deeper water usually over rubble patches, raised areas or around old wrecks so whilst your trolling around for Spanish mackerel keep your eyes on the sounder and when you see some life mark it on the GPS and return later. If you are new to the area then nautical charts are great things to study and will give you enough clues to catching fish if you study them carefully.  Zoning maps can be obtained from GBRMPA.</p>
<p><b>Game Fishing</b></p>
<p> Courtesy Steve Ahlers</p>
<p>Whether you choose light or heavy tackle Cooktown with its close proximity to the reef and the continental shelf offers the angler a world class destination.  The variety of species on offer is outstanding especially when you consider how far you don’t have to travel to catch them.</p>
<p>From September to December the marlin fleet from across the globe, converge on far north Queensland.  Many choose Cooktown as their base, chasing the elusive 1000lb (Grander) black marlin and to fish the Annual Lizard Island Classic.  It is during these months that big female marlin with their attentive males, are brought down the currents on the outer reefs feeding on the ample bait supplies.  This provides the angler an opportunity to target these leviathans from the deep.</p>
<p><b>Key Species</b></p>
<p><b>River and Estuarine:</b> barramundi, mangrove jack, fingermark, tarpon, queenfish, trevally, salmon, cod, bream, grunter, flathead, jungle perch, sooty grunter.</p>
<p>Barramundi closed season; 1st November, midday – 1st February, midday.</p>
<p><b>Inshore/offshore: </b>marlin, sailfish, wahoo, mackerel, bluefin tuna, yellowfin tuna, coral trout, cod, red emperor, spangled emperor, sweetlip, fingermark, nannigai, queenfish, trevally, cobia,</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishinghopevale">Fishing near Hope Vale</a> – McIvor River and Cape Bedford</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishinglaura">Fishing near Laura</a> – Lakefield, Bathurst Bay, Bathurst Heads and Cape Melville</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishingrainforestcoast">Fishing in the Rainforest Coast</a> – Bloomfield River</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/cape-york-fishing">Fishing Cape York Peninsula</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/cooktown_region/fishing%20trails" target="_blank">Download</a> the Fishing and Birdwatching Brochure </p>
<h3>Fish with the local experts on a fishing charter:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.fishingcooktown.com/" target="_blank">Gone Fishing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.cooktownbarracharters.com/" target="_blank">Cooktown Barra Charters</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.cooktownbluewatercharters.com.au/" target="_blank">Cooktown Bluewater Charters</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bungiehelicopters.com.au/" target="_blank">Bungi Helicopters – Heli Fishing</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://capeyorksafaris.com/" target="_blank">Saratoga Fishing and Hunting Adventures</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.bloomfieldescape.com.au/" target="_blank">Bloomfield Escape</a></li>
<li>For local advice, bait, tackle, rod and reel repairs – visit <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours/thelureshop">The Lure Shop</a></li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Cape Bedford</strong></p>
<p> Fishermen at Elim Beach</p>
<p>Travelling north out of Cooktown harbour you pass Indian Head and Knob Point both worthy fishing spots.  About 12 nautical miles north from Cooktown is South Bedford, this location offers a good culmination of contours, inshore reef, wrecks and current lines coming together to form one great fishery. Trolling lures for Spanish mackerel, tuna, queenfish and big trevally can result in fast and furious action in this highly dynamic area; getting a feed shouldn’t be a problem.</p>
<p>A few miles further north takes you to North Bedford with its stunning perspective of the coloured sands and a view of the McIvor river mouth.  Plenty of inshore reef and a few wrecks to fish. Big barra and coral trout inhabit the rocks and are caught regularly on a variety of methods.  A fun method is to throw surface lures around for some truly spectacular hits.</p>
<p><strong>McIvor</strong><strong> River</strong></p>
<p> Courtesy Gone Fishing</p>
<p>Lies approx 20 nautical miles north of Cooktown; up and around Cape Bedford.  It takes about 1 hour by boat or 2 hours (approx 80km) from Cooktown by road to get to Morgan’s landing. You can camp and launch smaller boats at Morgan’s landing which is 8km off the main track. 4WD is necessary and launching on a low tide needs extreme caution.  Alternatively drive onto the Flattery beach, turning right for the river mouth, along the sandy beach until the very end where there are limited camping spots and small tinnies can be launched.  Access by road is not advised during the wet.  The McIvor is a truly unique fishery.  Coral reef lye just offshore; flats fishing possibilities abound at the mouth in the right weather.  Big sand dunes come down to the river inside the mouth, where lots of fun can be had with queenies and trevally on Poppers.  The river then twists its way up through the mangroves passing deep holes and snags, junctions, rock bars etc.  A saltwater resistant palm called Nypa dominates the mangroves in several places providing a jungle feel.  Fishing can be awesome with many methods working well on all your usual estuarine tropical fish.  Traversing the beach is best done on a low tide.  Certainly an area that’s unique and well worth an exploration.  It has it all for the 4WD, fishing and camping enthusiast, or for those that just want to get away.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishing">Fishing in Cooktown</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishinglaura">Fishing near Laura</a> – Lakefield N.P., Bathurst Bay, Bathurst Heads, Cape Melville</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/fishingrainforestcoast">Fishing in the Rainforest Coast</a> – Bloomfield River</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/fishing/cape-york-fishing">Fishing in Cape York Peninsula</a></p>
<p><strong>Fishing Tour Operators:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours/gonefishing">Gone Fishing</a></p>
<p><strong>Where to Stay:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/hopevale/elimbeachcampsite">Elim Beach Campsite</a></p>