<p>Black Mountain, Queensland. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>Located 25 km south of Cooktown on the Mulligan Highway, the mysterious Black Mountains were originally formed from magma that slowly solidified under the Earth’s crust about 250 million years ago.  The mountains consist of huge boulders of grey granite, which have been blackened by algae growing on the exposed surfaces. They are very unstable and should not be climbed, as rain causes the boulders to fracture, break and slowly disintegrate, sometimes explosively.</p>
<p>The mountains are a place of cultural significance for the Kuku Yalanji people, who call them Kalkajaka, or ‘place of the spear’. They contain at least four sites of religious or mythological importance – Kambi, Julbanu, Birmba and Yirrmbal – each having its own story.</p>
<p>There are many non-Indigenous stories about the mountains too, with tales of people, horses and whole mobs of cattle disappearing into the labyrinths of rock, never to be seen again. Indeed, when the Cooktown Local News ran a story on April 1st about a giant black panther being caught there, the majority of people believed the story, failing to realise it was an April Fool’s joke!</p>
<p>The park is home to some unique wildlife – one species of frog and two lizard species are found nowhere else. Godman’s rock wallabies and ghost bats also live here.</p>
<p>There is a lookout and viewing platform signposted from the highway, and information boards giving more information about this amazing place.</p>
<p>Visit the magical Black Mountains with <a href="http://www.cooktowntours.com.au/Cooktown_Tours.html" target="_blank">Cooktown Tours</a></p>

<p>Accessible by 4WD during the dry season only (May-November).</p>
<p>Access via the Starcke Homestead 12 hours north (225 km) of Cooktown or through Lakefield N.P. and Kalpowar Aboriginal lands, 12 hours north of Cairns.</p>
<p>Recreational fishing is allowed in all rivers and creeks in the park and fisheries regulations apply. Estuarine crocodiles live in the waterways along the coast and offshore – be croc wise.</p>
<p>For coastal fishing limited fishing is allowed in the Conservation Park yellow zone in Bathurst Bay, check <a>www.gbrmpa.gov.au</a>” target=”_blank”>www.gbrmpa.gov.au</a> for marine park zoning info.</p>
<p>Bush camping is possible at Bathurst Bay behind the beach, camping permits are required and available from the self-registration shelter at Lakefield ranger station.</p>
<p>Other campsites are at Bathurst Head and adjacent to the Marrett River – ask for more info at QPWS offices.</p>
<p>Camping is also possible in the nearby Kalpowar Recreation Reserve and on Flinders Island.</p>
<p> Sunset at Bathurst Heads, Courtesy Graham Burton</p>

<p><i>Mangkalba</i><i> </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa</i><i> </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p>The Park is home to a wonderful variety of wildlife including the rare and elusive <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/animals/tree_kangaroo">Bennett’s tree kangaroo</a>, endangered southern cassowary and the beach stone-curlew. It lies between Cape Tribulation and Cooktown and is accessible only by boat or on foot via the Home Rule Walking Track. </p>
<p>Take the turnoff south to Helenvale from the Mulligan Highway, about 2 kms south of Black Mountain. Continue through Helenvale and Rossville. Once in Rossville there is a turnoff on your left to Home Rule rainforest lodge. The homestead and access to Cedar Bay North is 3 kms down this track.</p>
<p>The 17km (one way) walking track is a rough, steep and difficult track and should only be attempted by experienced walkers. </p>
<p> Creek flowing down the slopes of Mt Hartley in Cedar Bay National Park</p>
<p>Walking the track should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast, as it crosses several creeks, and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather.</p>
<p>Camping</p>
<p>Bush camping is available in coastal vegetation adjacent to the beach. No facilities are provided so campers must be self-sufficient.</p>
<p>Camping permits are required and fees apply. Permits are limited and it is recommended that you book at least two weeks in advance.</p>
<p>For further information, contact the <a href="http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/mangkalba/about.html" target="_blank">Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing</a>  </p>

<p>Access is from Cooktown or Ayton by private or <a href="resolveuid/d42d3bd2d46b2349554081f0bfd6de33">charter boat</a>. There is no access to West Hope in the sea bird breeding season from September-March.</p>
<p>An important nesting site for pied imperial pigeons, the islands are significant sea country for the Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people.</p>
<p>Snorkelling and diving from the islands to pristine reefs.</p>
<p>There are four bush campsites on East Hope island.</p>

<p>Rinyirru (Lakefield) is of considerable Aboriginal cultural significance, and the park has many places associated with occupation, ceremonies and ancestral spirits. Hann Crossing and Kalpowar Crossing are two such significant sites.</p>
<p>The Park is located in the Laura Basin 6-7 hours north of Cairns. There are several access points: via Laura and the Peninsula Development Road; from Cooktown along Battle Camp Road; on the Lakeland-Laura Road, or from Coen via the Musgrave Roadhouse. Access is only during the dry season, normally May to November, but early or late rains might render some of the tracks impassable. 4WD is highly recommended.</p>
<p>Fishing is permitted at all camping grounds with barramundi and catfish the most common species caught. Boat tours and hire are not available, but you are welcome to bring your own boat.</p>
<p> Kalpowar Crossing Camping Lakefield National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>There are bush camping areas at 12 Mile Waterhole, Old Faithful Waterhole, Mick Fienn and Dingo Waterholes, Kalpowar Crossing Campground, 7 Mile Waterhole and  Hann Crossing. Camping is no longer via self-registration; you now need to register either online, at a QPWS office, or by phone. Visit the <a href="http://nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/rinyirru-lakefield/camping.html#all_camping_must_now_be">Parks web site</a> for further information.</p>

<p>The Lizard Island group lies midway between the coast and the outer barrier reefs on the edge of the continental shelf.</p>
<p> Lizard Island, Queensland. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>Lizard the main island has several sheltered sandy beaches with easy access to the coral and clam gardens. The islands are rich in cultural meaning for the Dingaal Aboriginal people who have lived in the area for tens of thousands of years, and also contain important European heritage sites.</p>
<p>Lizard Island was declared a National Park in 1939 and the other islands were added in 1987. The reef and waters surrounding Lizard Island are protected within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and GBR World Heritage Area.</p>
<p>Watson’s Bay is a popular snorkeling site with famed clam gardens and a unique abundance and diversity of solitary corals. The edge of the continental shelf lies just 20km to the east of Lizard Island and the sports fishing from Lizard is world class with 1000lb black marlin frequently caught.</p>
<p>Rising to 395 m above sea level, Cook’s Look provides stunning views of the surrounding reefs and there are several other walking trails with varying degrees of difficulty.</p>
<p> Cook’s Look, Lizard Island, Queensland. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<p>Lizard Island has a tropical climate with a wet season from December-April and best time to visit is May-November</p>
<p>There is a <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cape-york-peninsula/lizard-island">5 star resort</a> on Lizard Island and bush camping is permitted in Watson’s Bay on Lizard Island and permits must be obtained in advance.</p>
<p>Commercial airlines provide regular flights from Cairns and charter flights are available from Cairns and Cooktown. Private aircraft may land with permission from the resort.<br />Commercial charter vessels depart from Cairns, Port Douglas and Cooktown for Lizard Island.</p>

<h3>Cooktown Discovery Trail Summary</h3>
<p><strong>Day 1. </strong>Cooktown-Laura via Lakefield National Park 136 km, approx 2 hr 30 mins</p>
<p><strong>Day 2.</strong> Laura-Cooktown 143 km, approx 1 hrs, 30 mins</p>
<p> Kalpowar Crossing Camping Lakefield National Park. Courtesy of Tourism Queensland</p>
<h3>DAY 1. Cooktown-Laura.</h3>
<p>Road conditions unsealed, suitable for 4WD.</p>
<p>A dirt road links Cooktown to Lakefield National Park, past the Endeavour Falls and on through Battle Camp Road. Camping permits and information about the park can be obtained from QPWS rangers at Cooktown, New Laura, Lakefield or Bizant Ranger Stations. Crossing Laura River, you will come upon historic Old Laura Homestead, one of the oldest cattle properties on Cape York. The structure you see today was built in 1892.</p>
<p>You can bush camp in Lakefield National Park (permit required) or continue onto the township of Laura, where hotel and camping facilities are available.</p>
<p>Carry plenty of drinking water and fuel as there are no service stations in the park. </p>
<p> WARNING – CROCODILES. Estuarine crocodiles are present in creeks, rivers and waterholes in this area.</p>
<p> Giant Horse Gallery</p>
<h3>DAY 2. Laura-Cooktown.</h3>
<p>Road conditions sealed suitable for 2WD.</p>
<p>The area surrounding Laura is known as ‘Quinkan country’ and is renowned for its ancient Aboriginal rock art galleries, considered among the world’s finest. The ‘Split Rock’ site about 10km south of Laura is open to the public. To learn more about the region’s history and culture, visit the Quinkan Regional and Cultural Centre to organise a site tour. If you are interested in these areas you will need to contact them prior to starting your trip.</p>
<p>Another of Laura’s highlights is the annual Horse Races and Rodeo which are held on the first weekend of July, and the Indigenous Dance and Cultural Festival held every two years.</p>
<p>Follow the Peninsula Development Road south to the tiny township of Lakeland Downs, in the heart of the Laura River Valley. This is now a major coffee and banana growing region.</p>
<p>The final 80 km back to Cooktown crosses four rivers – the West Normanby, East Normanby, Little Annan and Big Annan. Allow time for a few stops in the last 30km – Black Mountain National Park, the historic Lion’s Den Hotel (a 4km detour from the main road) and finally Keating’s Lagoon.</p>
<h3>Enjoy the whole Great Tropical Drive</h3>
<p>Follow the Great Tropical Drive for 12 days and 2079 kilometres to some of Australia’s best known attractions – the Great Barrier Reef, Daintree Rainforest, Hinchinbrook Island and Undara Lava Tubes – and be prepared for many unexpected discoveries along the way.</p>
<p>The Great Tropical Drive passes through six unique regions of North Queensland: <br /> Cooktown, Port Douglas and Daintree, Cairns and Beaches, Mission Beach and the Cassowary Coast, Tropical Tablelands and Savannah Country, Townsville, Charters Towers and Hinchinbrook.</p>
<p>Information courtesy of <a href="http://http//www.cairnsgreatbarrierreef.org.au/" target="_blank">Tourism Tropical North Queensland</a></p>

<p>The display showcases regional history through stories, photos, interactive displays, murals and oral histories.</p>
<p>The Archive and Research facility has the largest collection of maps, photos and documents pertaining to Cooktown’s history. The Centre provides local history and family research with over 60,000 names on the database.</p>
<p>The Cooktown History Centre is located next door to the Post Office at 121 Charlotte Street.</p>
<p>Open Monday-Saturday 9.00am – 12.00pm. The Archive and Research Centre is open throughout the main tourism season but may be closed from December to April. A small entrance fee applies to help maintain this volunteer run facility.</p>
<p><b>Ph: (07) 4069 6640</b></p>

<p>Cooktown boasts a number of beautifully maintained historic buildings including the fabulous Cooktown Museum on Helen St and the Old Bank in Charlotte St.</p>
<p>The Cooktown Museum is open daily, located in the carefully restored St Marys Convent, on the corner of Helen and Furneaux Streets. Displays feature artefacts, images and information, depicting the time James Cook spent here in 1770 repairing the Endeavour and interacting with the local Aboriginal people. The discovery of Gold at the Palmer River gave rise to the birth of Cooktown over 100 years later. Museum exhibits tell some fascinating aspects of the local Chinese, European and Aboriginal histories of this region. The restored Endeavour anchor and one of her 6 cannons are features of the Cooktown Museum.</p>
<p>The Cooktown and District Historical Society have mounted a magnificent exhibition -Cooktown through the Years-in the stately 19th Century Historic Bank building in Charlotte Street. Open from Easter through to October. All visitors and tour groups are welcome. </p>
<p>Nature’s Powerhouse is located in the historic Botanical Gardens and features the works of Vera Scarth Johnson who gifted her detailed botanical artworks to the people of Cooktown. </p>
<p>Artists and Craftspeople abound in the area, inspired by the landscapes, colours and stories. </p>
<p>The Old Railway Station Building in Charlotte Street is the perfect outlet for the artistic members of the Cooktown Creative Arts Association. Run by volunteers and the artists it is a treasure trove of local creations.</p>
<p>The Elizabeth Guzeley Gallery is located next to the Cooktown Post Office on Charlotte St and regularly holds exhibitions of local artworks, an annual Art Awards competition and co ordinates the Cooktown Art Festival.</p>
<p>The Black Cockatoo Gallery is a hidden gem for those exploring the Bloomfield & Ayton areas. Artist Ross Franzi and friends have created a stunning gallery with some wonderful sculptures, fabulous paintings and stunning pieces inspired by the unique, untouched environs of the region.</p>
<p>The Quinkan and Regional Cultural Centre at Laura displays and sells works by local Aboriginal artists. It is open daily from 9am with flexible summertime hours.</p>