<p>Willie takes you to his ancestral rock art sites, high in the hills outside Cooktown. Here he shares the stories behind the art, and explains how the paintings speak of the essence of life and the lores of his people. With his great smile and infectious laugh, Willie will give you an amazing insight into Aboriginal society and spirituality, and show you how we all have a connection to the land, wherever we come from.</p>

<p>Listen and learn as your host Gerry introduces you to Nature’s Storehouse. Take a step back in time with your hostess Irene as she relates what it was really like growing up an Aboriginal under missionary rule. Maaramaka Walkabout Tours endeavours to preserve the knowledge of the flora and fauna found within Nature’s Storehouse – the bush and rainforest including the sand dunes. <br /> Gerry has a wealth of knowledge with regards to the many species of plants and trees to be found in our Rainforests and bushland.</p>
<p><b>Ph: (07) 4069 5381 or (07) 4060 9389</p>
<p></b></p>

<p>This walk is only recommended for self reliant walkers with extensive bushwalking experience.</p>
<p>The trail to Cedar Bay starts at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge and walkers are requested to stop at the lodge for directions to the starting point. The strenuous, 28 kilometre return walk takes 6 to 8 hours walking time each way. It is essential to start the walk in the morning, the earlier the better, to arrive at the bay before nightfall. Because the trail is not well-used some sections are indistinct, so make sure you don’t lose sight of the orange markers. It is rough undulating country, so wear strong hiking boots and protective clothing. Carry everything you need, but take lightweight gear as it is a long way to carry a heavy pack.</p>
<p><b>Home Rule to Slaty Creek – 1¾ hours </b></p>
<p>The walk starts on an old logging track and heads straight into the rainforest. The track splits a few minutes into the walk – go right. Shortly, the track splits again – go left. A few more minutes brings you to Wallaby Creek. About 10 minutes beyond Wallaby Creek the track forks again – go left.</p>
<p>After the track crosses another small creek it swings north, climbing straight to the top of a moderately steep ridge. From this point it swings east at ninety degrees and starts to descend, passing amongst large rainforest trees, tree ferns and Licuala palms.</p>
<p>About 1 hour into the walk you come to a narrow gully spanned by two thin metal pipes. From here a narrow trail continues on from the old logging track. The trail heads north to Slaty Creek, about 1¾ hours from Home Rule.</p>
<p><b>Slaty Creek to Black Snake Rocks – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>After crossing Slaty Creek the trail swings east and follows the creek for about 1·5 kilometres to the junction of Slaty and Granite Creeks, where there is an excellent campsite. Beyond the junction the trail meanders through forest beside Granite Creek for a while and then gets rougher as it winds through scattered granite boulders, crossing a few small creeks. Eventually the trail scales a slope covered with huge granite boulders and arrives at Black Snake Rocks.</p>
<p>Black Snake Rocks is an open area, with a creek and a good campsite, but (obviously) be aware that snakes do bask on the rocks. The creek next to the campsite is the last reliable water source before Ashwell Creek at Cedar Bay.</p>
<p><b>Black Snake Rocks to Cedar Bay – 2½ hours</b></p>
<p>Beyond the campsite the trail meanders across a flat densely forested plateau. This area was extensively mined in the past and remnants of miners’ activities crop up regularly. Most noticeable are water diverting channels dug by tin miners early last century. The trail runs alongside a channel just before it reaches a clearing crisscrossed with trenches full of ferns, a trap for unwary legs.</p>
<p>On the eastern side of the clearing scraps of corrugated iron and abandoned cooking implements mark where the trail re-enters the forest. The trail continues alongside a smaller channel before swinging southeast along a broad ridge to the top of the range overlooking Cedar Bay. Unfortunately, there is no position where you can get more than a tantalising glimpse of the coast. From here the trail descends a spur to the bay, another 1½ to 2 hours away.</p>
<p>The steep descent to the bay is eased by a set of switchbacks carved into the hillside, another legacy of the mining era. Supplies were transported to the mines by packhorse, and the ore removed by return journey. It is difficult to imagine a horse climbing these steep inclines, let alone carrying a load. Further down, the switchbacks end and the trail straightens as it approaches the bottom of the coastal range.</p>
<p>Ashwell Creek is only a short distance from the base of the range. Fill your water containers here, as the water in the creeks near the ocean is brackish (and may conceal crocodiles).</p>
<p>Cross the creek, swing left and follow the trail to the beach. There are remnants of Cedar Bay Bill’s hut on the southern bank of Ashwell Creek near the crossing. The trail emerges at the northern end of the beach amongst a grove of pandanus palms next to Cedar Bay Bill’s monument, which bears the epitaph “Strange to the world, he wore a bashful look – the sea and shore his study, nature his book”.</p>
<p>Cedar Bay Bill was a tin miner, famous for accepting and befriending a utopian hippy community that attempted to flee society and build a Shangrila at Cedar Bay in the early 1970s. Whatever it was they believed in didn’t suit the government of the day, who sent select law enforcers to destroy the campsites and disband the community, an action that annoyed all but the most conservative citizens of the time. Bill retained his miners lease until his death in 1987, and the story of the commune has entered folkloric mythology. This has given the bay a special allure, and many walkers come specifically to pay homage to the site.</p>
<p>Although it is a national park, Cedar Bay is still a remote tropical paradise with a 3 kilometre palm fringed beach. A stroll along the beach reveals sheltered campsites – just camp well away from the swamps and be wary of falling coconuts.</p>
<p>This is a tranquil place where campers can now contemplate the irrelevance of time and appreciate the moment without fear of government gunboats, but do remember, you need a camping permit and park rules state that there can be no fishing or collecting within the park.</p>
<p><b>Specific Features: </b>Beautiful tropical rainforest, rugged mountains and a palm fringed beach.</p>
<p><i>Mangkalba </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Strenuous</p>
<p><b>Distance:</b> 28 Kilometre (Return)</p>
<p><b>Duration:</b> 6-8 hours each way</p>
<p><b>Access:</b> Self Guided – (*Permit required)</p>
<ul>
<li>This track begins on the private property of the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge. The lodge managers allow access via their property and provide detailed advice to walkers.</li>
<li><b>Water Taxi</b> – Cedar Bay Transfers – <br /> Either one way for bushwalkers not interested in the return leg of the walking track or Return – get delivered to or collected from Cedar Bay on your nominated day. Ph: 07 4060 8252</li>
<li><b>Alternate Route </b>– Gap Creek Track. Only for the very experienced bush walker and <b>should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast.</b> It crosses several creeks and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather. For details and advice contact Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service or visit <a href="http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html">www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cedar-bay/about.html</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Facilities:</b> No facilities</p>
<ul>
<li>*Bush camping is permitted in the park, but a camping permit must be obtained two weeks in advance from the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service office in Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</li>
<li>Overnight camping at the Home Rule Rainforest Lodge is allowed by prior arrangement with the owners, allowing walkers an early morning start. Phone 07 4060-3925.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Trail Management Contact:</b><i> </i>Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service – Mossman: 07 4098 2188, Cooktown: 07 4069 5777 or Cairns: 07 4046 6600.</p>
<p> Map of Cedar Bay walking trail courtesy Footloose publications</p>

<p><i>Mangkalba</i><i> </i>(Cedar Bay) is the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people, whose country extends along the coast to Mossman. Cedar Bay National Park was a major turtle hunting area and contains important cultural sites including the <i>murabaymba</i> (canoe), <i>ngawaia</i> (turtle) and <i>ngiwa</i><i> </i>(saltwater eel) story sites.</p>
<p>The Park is home to a wonderful variety of wildlife including the rare and elusive <a href="https://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/do/nature/animals/tree_kangaroo">Bennett’s tree kangaroo</a>, endangered southern cassowary and the beach stone-curlew. It lies between Cape Tribulation and Cooktown and is accessible only by boat or on foot via the Home Rule Walking Track. </p>
<p>Take the turnoff south to Helenvale from the Mulligan Highway, about 2 kms south of Black Mountain. Continue through Helenvale and Rossville. Once in Rossville there is a turnoff on your left to Home Rule rainforest lodge. The homestead and access to Cedar Bay North is 3 kms down this track.</p>
<p>The 17km (one way) walking track is a rough, steep and difficult track and should only be attempted by experienced walkers. </p>
<p> Creek flowing down the slopes of Mt Hartley in Cedar Bay National Park</p>
<p>Walking the track should not be attempted when heavy rain has fallen or is forecast, as it crosses several creeks, and steep sections can become slippery in wet weather.</p>
<p>Camping</p>
<p>Bush camping is available in coastal vegetation adjacent to the beach. No facilities are provided so campers must be self-sufficient.</p>
<p>Camping permits are required and fees apply. Permits are limited and it is recommended that you book at least two weeks in advance.</p>
<p>For further information, contact the <a href="http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/mangkalba/about.html" target="_blank">Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing</a>  </p>

<p>The Hope Vale Arts & Cultural Centre is at the heart of Guugu Yimithirr culture and actively involves Aboriginal people of all ages in passing on the cultural traditions and promoting the use and teaching of the Guugu Yimithirr language, which is alive and spoken daily by many local people. The Centre offers a space to learn ancient skills, such as gathering and weaving of local fibres and dyeing them with bush dyes, and modern skills such as printing, etching and contemporary art techniques.</p>
<p>The long and strong tradition of Aboriginal Artists born of this country and of the Guugu Yimithirr, include Derek Rosendale, Evelyn McGreen, Harold Bowen, Shane “Duka” Gibson, Madge Bowen, Ben McGreen, John Allums, Godfrey Gordon, Ken Walsh, Tulo Gordon, Sid McIvor, Walter Jack and <a href="http://www.hopevalearts.com/artists.html#roymcivor" target="_blank">Roy McIvor</a>. With many talented, younger artists emerging, Hope Vale envisions a bright future for its culture.</p>
<p>Visitors are welcome to visit the Centre weekdays, <br /> between the hours of 9am and 4.30pm, at Flierl Street, Hope Vale.</p>

<p>Mooks was raised on his traditional land where he learnt the old ways from his Grandparents, Uncles and elder family members.</p>
<p>He learnt about bush medicines and bush foods from them and he finds great joy sharing his knowledge of plants, his culture and the land.</p>
<p>As a tour guide, Mooks has over 40 years’ experience and in Kuku Nyungkul language he is known as a ‘Kuku bugga’ which means he loves to talk!</p>
<p>Throughout his life Mooks has always been a keen communicator of traditional culture, helping people from all walks of life, to make a deeper connection to country.</p>
<p>Tour options include a three hour tour and a 90 minute tour. Bookings essential.</p>
<p>Rossville Retreat also offers camping and bush lodges accommodation.</p>

<p>Bana Yirriji Art and Cultural Centre is a community and council run gallery and cultural centre with an artist studio. Come and visit the local bama artists and learn their culture. The art gallery is a great place to buy locally made jewellery and art. </p>
<p>Art Centre temporarily CLOSED – new centre location being sought.<br />Tropical Cyclone Jasper in December 2023 caused catastrophic damage to the Bana Yirriji Art Centre and Wujal Wujal Aboriginal Shire Council is working to find an alternate temporary location for artists to work from while funding is being sought to have a new centre constructed.</p>

<p>The rock art of south-east Cape York Peninsula forms some of the oldest and largest galleries in the world. The main areas stretch in an arc from north of Cooktown, inland to the Palmer River, with a multitude of paintings, stencils and engravings across the traditional lands of the Kuku Yalanji, Guugu Yimithirr and Kuku Thaypan people.</p>
<p>Aboriginal communities throughout Cape York Peninsula maintain strong connections with the land and sea, ensuring the survival of this ancient culture. Traditional custodians share some of their stories on guided walks at special sites around the region. From Cooktown you can visit the Nugal rock art sites outside Hope Vale with the traditional custodian and story-keeper.</p>
<p>For a truly unique local Aboriginal experience, discover the homelands of the Balnggarrawarra people at Normanby Station on either a half day or full day tour with Traditional Owners. <a href="https://cultureconnect.com.au/" target="_blank">Culture Connect Australia</a> offer a full day 4WD Rock Art and Ranger Tour or a half day Rock Art Experience. Pick up available from Cooktown. Book <a href="https://cultureconnect.com.au/tours-departing-cooktown/" target="_blank">online</a> or phone 1300 794 175. </p>
<p><strong>Laura Rock Art</strong></p>
<p>In the Laura region you can take a self-guided walk around Split Rock or arrange an interpretive tour of different rock art sites up in the escarpment overlooking the Laura River.</p>
<p>The rock art galleries in Quinkan Country near Laura are listed by UNESCO as being among the top 10 sites in the world.</p>
<p>The Split Rock site, located 14 kms from Laura, is the most famous of the galleries. Guided tours of around 1 hour can be arranged at The Quinkan Cultural Centre or there is interpretive signage if you would like to take a self-guided tour. The galleries are a 15 minute uphill walk from the car park with some rough sections, so wear sturdy shoes.  Call 07 4060 2239 for Visitor Information and book your guided tours in advance. </p>
<p>The Mushroom Rock and Giant Horse sites offer an incredible array of rock art. Both sites can be combined on a 3.5 hour guided tour, or they can be visited separately. Access is easy to Mushroom Rock with a short walk from the car parking area. The Giant Horse site involves some steeper walking sections.</p>
<p>The views from the Giant Horse galleries combined with the sheer volume of art on display are breathtaking and a must-do experience when visiting the region.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.jarramalirockarttours.com.au/" target="_blank">Jarramali Rock Art Tours</a> is an Aboriginal owned and operated business run by friendly and experienced Kuku-Yalanji traditional owners. Join a guided tour for an incredible Aboriginal cultural tour experience. </p>